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To change the Shhh I’m doing math shirt moreover I will buy this feeling demanded changing the garments. Shirts were elongated into dresses, jacket skirts and hoody hems lengthened, pant waists raised, shorts widened. Van Noten said these alterations and others in the exterior of his garments were made hand-in-hand with upgrades under the bonnet, “so it’s a pity that we don’t have the possibility of being able to touch them.” As an example he said a lot of the jackets were made in the lightest possible wool, which was lightly padded to give the appearance of structure alongside the feel of looseness and release. Similarly, T-shirts were fashioned in two layers between which delicate bolstering was inserted to create a crisp appearance while feeling slouchy. Ultra-light duchesse cotton was imported from womenswear as a suiting material: “When you touch it it is quite chewy—quite like leather.”There was pattern here, but of a type in sync with the thesis of the whole. Motifs used traditionally for ties were adapted, distorted, and upgraded for a new life across the collection. Especially attractive was a riotous botanical on a slim-fitting souvenir-style jacket above some double-dyed denim jeans and a pair of the slouchy, puffy, elastic-backed moccasins that were elsewhere topped with gaiter-like leg warmers. One point of connection across the collection were the gleaming metal rings used to secure belts, knits, and bags. This was a collection built to look sharp but feel soft—a fruitful reexamination of the essence of “essentials.”
As we enter the Shhh I’m doing math shirt moreover I will buy this second year of the pandemic—and that must be as awful to read as it was to write—plenty of us are still being challenged to think (and do) anew. Parisian designer Boramy Viguier—whose work mixes up medievalism, mysticism, and modernism into a strange otherworldliness (that’s totally a compliment, BTW)—is proof of this never-knew-you-could-till-you-had-to approach.The new approach, in his case, is filmmaking; in the last six months, Viguier has made two. His first, late last year, was presented as part of GucciFest. His second will showcase his fall 2021 collection, with Viguier codirecting alongside Samuel Rixon. Compare this to the fact that, in the relatively short life span of his label, he’s done one live runway show. Given his enthusiasm for the filmic genre, maybe that show will have been his first and last. I mean, and this is as good a place to mention it as any, Viguier’s penchant for moviemaking doesn’t just extend to his own collections. He’d love to costume design something by his favorite director, Paul Thomas Anderson. I will, as they say, just leave that there.